A long-distance loop through three countries
The Peaks of the Balkans is a circular long-distance trek through the Accursed Mountains that loops across three countries — Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo — over roughly ten days. It was originally about 192 km; the Valbona–Çerem section was later redesigned to avoid an old tractor road — adding the scenic Qafa e Persllopit pass — shortening the standard route to about 168 km. It is not technical — no scrambling with ropes, no glacier travel — but it is a serious mountain undertaking with big daily ascents, high passes and remote guesthouses, and it requires a cross-border permit you must arrange in advance.
A typical day is 15–20 km with around 1,000 m of ascent and a similar descent, on rough, sometimes loose terrain at altitude. You sleep in family-run guesthouses and simple mountain huts in the villages between passes, nearly all offering half-board.
How Theth fits
Theth is one of the trail's key hubs. For many walkers it is the natural start and finish, because it is the easiest trailhead to reach by public transport — a furgon up the paved SH21 from Shkodër. The route's most famous single stage, the Theth–Valbona crossing over the Valbona Pass (~1,795 m), is walked by huge numbers of people as a standalone day even if they never do the full loop. And the Peja Pass stage (~1,742 m) drops back into Theth from the Montenegro side, making the village both a gateway out and a gateway home.
If you only have a few days, you can sample the trail's best sections from Theth without committing to all ten stages.
Planning it
The season runs roughly mid-June to late September, once the high passes are clear of snow. Sort your permit early — at least 14 days ahead, though agencies advise 2–6 weeks — and carry a mix of lek and euros, because card payment is essentially non-existent in the mountains and there are no ATMs in the trail villages, Theth included. For the full breakdown of stages, costs and logistics, see our Peaks of the Balkans trail guide, and read the permits guide before you do anything else.
